23.9.11

Surf's Up!


The last few days, a Pacific swell has stimulated the waves hitting the North Shore. The decent sized waves have made the surfing more exciting. Since the North Shore is one of the most famous surfing spots in the world, I decided to drive down to the areas with the most notorious surfing conditions, including the very dangerous Banzai Pipeline. Surfers discriminate very narrowly the various breaks, often differentiating every 100 yards or so. To my untrained eye, it all looked the same. Anyway, from Sunset Beach to Waimea Bay, the breaks are infamous. However, it's not December... that's when the surf in the following pictures doubles, even triples in size. These are from the Banzai Pipeline shoreline (Ehukai Beach).







After a hard day surfing... or at least picture taking, I retired to the pool bar. The green flags were out announcing the sunset drink special, The Green Flash (tequila with the ever present pineapple juice). The only flash I noticed was behind my eyes...

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